Tuesday, 8 September 2009

Asmara - 356 Coldharbour lane

I have never tasted Eritrean food, so cannot claim to be able to judge the quality of Asmara relative to other Ethiopian offerings. I would, however, recommend it highly. The idea was sold to me by a knowing friend on the basis that one doesn’t use cutlery in Ethiopia. I’ve always found knives and forks an annoying impediment anyway, really only serving to limit the extent of my indigestion.

The place itself is simple, with a facade barely distinguishable from the other low cost eateries in the area.

The food is served on a large circular plate, which is covered in Injera; a spongy, sourdough, flat bread which is used to mop up the various stews, meats and vegetables which are arranged in appetising ladlefuls over the top. We ordered a minced lamb stew, spinach and fermented cheese, a broad bean and tomato salad and some spiced green lentils. I couldn’t fault any of it, particularly the lightly spiced lamb stew.

The real thing though is eating with your hands. Perhaps it is that it seems to hark back to a simpler time in one’s life, a time when all one did was sleep, eat and wait for an obliging parent to sort out the resulting mess or maybe it is that it helps to make you feel more connected with the food. I’m not sure, however I didn’t feel like this last time I savaged a whopper meal. With the meal for three of us, including drinks, coming in at under £25, its considerably better value too.

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